Stew Slater
For the Gazette
It’s not the conventional method for financing and building a dairy processing plant, but Ruth Klahsen could never be described as a conventional cheesemaker.
Well-known among supporters and aficionados of artisanal cheesemaking in Ontario and beyond, Klahsen is best-known on two fronts: her contributions to the renowned Stratford Chefs School; and building the Monforte Dairy brand of sheep and goat cheeses, produced in a leased facility in the former Millbank Cheese Company plant, and sold through selected retail outlets and farmers’ market vendors, innovative restaurants, as well as high-profile, Monforte-only outlets at the Stratford Farmers’ Market and downtown Toronto’s St. Lawrence Farmers’ Market.
Effective January, 2009, however, Klahsen failed to reach agreement on a lease renewal in Millbank. Cheese production ceased, and she was forced to seek another facility. So, inspired by the growth of the “community-supported agriculture” (CSA) model of business financing, she launched what she called “Renaissance 2010.”
Maureen Argon, who handles communications and public relations for Monforte Dairy, related how Klahsen revealed the idea to a CBC Radio reporter in the days following the announcement that the
Millbank lease would expire. At the time, Argon admitted, “Renaissance 2010” was more of a concept than a set-in-stone fundraising program. But, when the company received about 60 concerned emails within a day of the CBC Radio report, there was inspiration to put details around the concept.
The result was a three-tiered offering for those wishing to contribute in advance to the future of Monforte. Those providing $200 would be welcomed to the “Wedge o’ Cheese” club, and receive — over five years following the recommencement of cheesemaking — $250 worth of cheese, in $50-per-year “payments.” Proportional offerings were made to those contributing $500 and $1,000, in the “Brick o’ Cheese” and “Wheel o’ Cheese” categories.
“And, of course, we would take more money if someone is interested in providing that,” Argon laughed.
Renaissance 2010 wasn’t launched on a whim, she stressed. Klahsen had talked to a number of conventional financing institutions, but her vision inspired little to no enthusiasm. So she began thinking about “micro-financing.” And the success she has achieved so far gives her hope that Monforte might one day serve as a model for proponents of other small-scale food processing entrepreneurs in Ontario.
The benefit to the producer or processor is undeniable: being paid up-front for food that is expected to be provided in the future. But Argon says there’s also a segment of the food-buying population who trumpet the benefits of CSA-style arrangements.
“You feel like you can ask questions about where your food came from and get real, honest answers,” she explained. “It’s not just some nameless, faceless entity that’s on the label.”
So far, Renaissance 2010 has been able to prove that those consumers exist. Almost 300 “subscribers” have already committed funds. Most are from the Toronto area, with others from places like Barrie, Windsor, Auburn, St. Marys and Listowel.
The campaign continues, but enough has already been raised for Klahsen to secure a piece of land in an industrial sector of Stratford, at 211 Lorne Ave. An April 15 news release stated that construction will begin in June of this year. And Argon says they hope to begin making cheese in January 2010.
In Millbank, Klahsen developed a reputation for cheddar and fresh cheeses made exclusively from seasonally-produced sheep and goat milk. According to Argon, all of the approximately 20 Amish producers who supplied that milk are committed to re-establishing the relationship once the Stratford plant is up and running.
But plans also call for the new location to expand on Monforte’s offering. Klahsen possesses processing quota for cow’s milk as well, and hopes to establish a market for seasonally-produced cheese from pasture-raised cows. True “mozzarella,” meanwhile, is made from milk from water buffalo. And, with a very small number of Ontario producers now testing that option, she hopes to begin using their milk in the new plant.
Monforte also plans to expand on her reputation for taking in apprentices, by establishing an accredited cheese-making school.
“There’s definitely more than cheese going on,” Argon commented. “It’s more than just getting a dairy up and running. It’s more of a community sustainability initiative — trying to establish something that’s going to become a part of a strong local food system.”
Monforte Dairy will host an open house on Sunday, May 17 at Stratford City Hall, from 2-4 p.m. Klahsen will provide details about the project, invited guests will provide their input, and then the floor will be opened for questions.
